Hot day again. Put the bike together and started cycling at noon. First around the airport, then eastwards towards Ghatkopar, then to the north to Thane. Around the airport folks live in slum-like conditions. I haven’t seen the ‘real’ slums yet, though, which I saw from the plane when landing.
Traffic was chaotic at best. Everyone seems to drive how they see fit. I haven’t seen any accidents however. Just like in Madagascar, the chaos seems to regulate itself to some degree. I don’t doubt that accidents happen, but they don’t happen as often as one would think. Drivers certainly ‘threaten’ to run you over, but threatening doesn’t work with me and everybody stopped in time. Best recipe for surviving and making some progress: (self-)confident and pro-active riding. Also interesting, people don’t seem to speed, even if the road is empty enough.
Got lost in Thane (my map is crap) and even in hindsight I can’t find the way I rode on the map. After 30km I left the metropolitan area of Mumbai (which, from what I can see, includes Thane).
Outside Thane traffic was ok but got worse again in a suburb of Bhiwandi called Anjur Phata. The amount of bicycles, autorickshas, motorbikes, cars, busses, and trucks that occupied the road was unbelievable. The only way through was a mix of riding off the road, between everybody, and on the other lane (which was as cramped as my own one). Ripped one of my coles bags open when manoeuvering around a truck. Fortunately, a hotel came to the rescue and I happily got off the bike.
Walked around the place at daylight and then again after nightfall. I didn’t feel uncomfortable at all, neither on streets with lighting nor on those without, and all I received were curious looks.
At dinner a guy sat down at my table for a tea and started asking me about my plans, family, job, etc. He had a red mark on the forehead but said he was not married. I thought the red dot on a (woman’s) forehead was a sign that she was married. Apparently women wear the dot for fashion reasons, too. Of course I missed the opportunity to ask the guy why he was wearing it…